How many of you have asked yourself, “My model ship looks great, but I could make it look better if I was able to put it in some realistic looking water”.  Well I asked myself the same question a few months ago and after some in-depth research and a little trial and error settled on several products to help create my watery world.   I found that Woodland Scenics, who produces model railroad scenery, developed two products called Realistic Water C1211 and Water Effects C1212 that make very good simulated water.  Both products when used correctly really helped bring my models to life once I took them out of the box, see picture.  The process I developed with these products is not fast, but the results I believe are worth it: 

1. I use 1:600 scale(s) Thoroughbred, finely crafted pewter miniatures for my ship models.  These are small models, but I found easy to handle. 

 2. I used some Balsa wood for my bases that will hold my water:

      a. 3/16” x 6” x 36” for the bases or bottom

      B. 3/4” x 2/4 x 36” thinner strips for the sides

3.  I am a wargamer as well as a model builder, so I already had a 6 x 8 foot piece of plain blue vinyl that I used as water terrain for my other naval war games.  I drew black 2” sided hexagon squares on the vinyl to make it easier to count off and measure distances during the game instead of using rulers or measuring tape.  I then used this same blue piece of vinyl as my guide to design the shape of my bases for my ships and water effects.  So I cut out several hexagons shaped balsa wood bases and numerous thinner strips of balsa to glue to the bases with Elmer’s multi-purpose glue to serve as the sides of my bases and hold my future water.  I ended up with several bases that looked like coasters that would hold drinks.  

4.  I then sprayed my balsa wood bases with 3 coats of American Tradition, Ultra Enamel, Dark Blue Gloss, Interior and Exterior spray paint.  I allowed about 12 hours for each coat to dry.  I found that this helped water proof the balsa wood and keep the water effects liquid from seeping through.

5.  For next part please read the Realistic Water from Woodland Scenics directions on the bottle.  You must only pour about a 1/8” layer of the realistic water liquid at a time.  I found that if you pour more it will dry with a white film from too much air in the liquid and not dry to a clear finish.  You also want the Realistic Water liquid to dry clear, so it reflects the color you painted the base.  In my case my base was dark blue to simulate water, but you can also have a blue brownish base to reflect river water or a blur blackish base to reflect deep ocean water depending on the ship or seaplane model you are building.  I ended up pouring 3 layers in each hexagon shaped base and I allowed 7 days for each layer to dry before I poured the next layer.  You must have a well ventilated room for the drying process and periodically stick a sawing needle into the liquid as it dries without puncturing the base to allow the air to get out.  The result will look like a clear layer of plastic in the bottom of the base.  The liquid will expand as it dries, so that is why I used the thick balsa strips for the sides.  I found that thinner strips will buckle out and away from the base under the pressure and allow the Realistic water to leak out.        

6.  Once the 3 layers of Realistic Water have dried it’s time to finish any work you need to do to your model, in my case my 1:600 scale thoroughbred miniature of the USS Hartford as seen in the picture.  Be advised that my method works best with a flat bottom ship, but if you have a ship with a round hull bottom I would suggest bracing your ship and glue it to the water you have already and adding more Realistic Water layers, 1/8” at a time until you fill up your hexagon coaster to the top of the sides.  If you have a flat bottom boat just glue it into position on your base water and allow at least 24 hours too dry.

7.  Now it’s time to add the last Woodland Scenics product called Water Effects.  You will squeeze this product out of the squeeze tube around your model between the model and the sides of your base.  I then recommended using a small metal trowel and gently spread out the white looking liquid to cover the top of the already hard Realistic Water and fill in any gapes that may exist between model and the already hard Realistic Water.  Finally you will gently tap the top of the white Water Effects liquid with the flat part of your trowel before it dries to create your waves, big tapes big waves, small taps small waves.  In addition feel free to add more Water Effects liquid if you want ripples in the water created by the moving ship.   Now let the model and base sit for 48 – 72 hours and it will all dry to a hard clear plastic.

8.  The final step is to take some white paint and dry brush the wave tops of your water, paying close attention to the rear of the ship if it has screw propulsion and you’re done.