Decaling – The Key to a Finished Looking Model

            Have you ever gotten your model trimmed out and painted just right, then applied the decals only to find the end product looks more like a toy than a scale model of the real thing?  That is not an uncommon result for beginning to novice modelers.  When I got back into modeling in 2000, I was not happy with the look of my finished kits, even though I was following the kit directions to the letter.  I couldn’t understand why the ones in the hobby shop window looked so much better than mine.  I started doing a little research and found that the keys to producing the look I wanted were all readily available at my local hobby shop, Hobby Lobby, or on-line.  I’m going to cover some of the basics here and in the demo Wednesday night.   

            The basic items you need for successful decaling are Setting Solution, Decal Solvent, Clear Gloss spray paint (or Future Floor Polish), Dull Coat spray paint, cotton swabs (and or a paint brush), Flat Tweezers, a no.11 blade Exacto knife, tooth picks, a straight edge and a small flat container to hold the water.   

            After you have finished painting your kit and before unmasking or adding the clear parts, you need to carefully read through the kit’s decaling directions and study the box art.  Many times there are places where you will apply a decal on top of another decal.  You want to make sure you get the sequence correct.  I like to number the decals on the sheet with a pencil in the sequence I will apply them.  Next you must prepare the surface.  Most of your WWII models are painted in a flat finish.  Decals do not by nature stick well to a flat painted surface; they settle in much better on a glossy finish.  It pained me the first time I took my beautifully camouflaged airplane and sprayed it with Gloss Coat, but the end effect was well worth it.  This is where you can use Future Floor polish (either airbrushed or painted on) in lieu of gloss coat to achieve the shiny surface. 

            After cutting the decal to be applied from the sheet, you need to submerge it in water for about 10-15 seconds then place it on a paper towel until the decal moves on the surface of the carrier paper when touched.  The paper towel will also wick away the excess water.  While the decal is loosening from the paper, you should apply a drop or two of Decal setting solution to the place on the model where the decal will be applied.  It will help prepare the surface to take the decal adhesive and give you a fluid surface on which to make any final positioning adjustments.  Using the flat tweezers, pick up the decal paper and position it near where you are placing the decal.  Using a cotton swab or a paint brush, or if the decal is thick enough, a toothpick, slide the decal off the sheet and on to the waiting solvent.  Position the decal and wick away any additional liquid with the cotton swab.  If you have to move the decal you can usually loosen it with another drop or two of the setting solution, but avoid moving the decal around too much as you will wear away the adhesive. 

            After the decal is placed, you will want to apply the Decal Solvent.  Be careful to keep the solvent on the decal and off your unsealed paint job as it can make your paint bubble.  What the solvent does is cause the decal to adhere to the shape of the surface below it.  So if you have complex curves, gun ports, blisters, panel lines, or a fabric like surface the solvent will cause the decal to settle onto the fine details and appear painted on.  I also like to trace the panel lines and rudder/aileron seams with a new no 11 blade Exacto Knife to help the solvent get into the seams and help the decal lay down even tighter.  The straight edge will help you with this if the scale of the kit is small and your hand not as steady as you’d like.  You can also use the knife to prick air bubbles that may appear on a decal.  Apply a drip of solvent to the bubble and it will help it flatten out.   

            Word of caution:  You need to be patient when decaling.  If you get in a hurry and handle your kit before the gloss coat dries, you can leave finger prints.  If you touch a decal too soon after applying solvent it will come off on your hand.  I wear cheap, disposable cotton gloves that I purchased from Hobby Lobby while decaling and painting to avoid finger prints.  I also try to let gloss coats cure for at least 24 hours before handling even with the gloves. 

            After your decals are applied and set (I like to go another 24 hours) you have to seal them, either with a gloss coat if that is the desired final finish, or with a Dull Coat if you want a flat finish.  You will find that the gloss coat provides an ‘evening’ of the painted surface so seams between camouflage colors and around the edge of decals will disappear.  The application of the sealant coat erases any remaining edges and provides protection to the decals.  Apply as many coats of Dull Coat as you need to get the right appearance, but be careful not to apply it too thickly as you do not want to obscure details like the panel lines.  Once dry (4-6 hrs as the flats cure faster than glosses) you can apply washes and weathering pastels with out worrying about damaging the decals. 

            I believe that if you follow these simple steps you will be much happier with the finished appearance of your models.  And of course the more you build, and the more you practice, the better you get!

 

**Pam has ordered decal setting solution and solvent as well as gloss and flat clear coat paints so check out Nana’s Hobby Shop for all your decaling needs.